How to surf

Finding your leading foot. The left foot forward is called natural stance and the right foot forward is a goofy foot stance.

The way to find out which way you swing (!) is to stand up straight, close your eyes and ask a friend to gently nudge you forward, the foot that goes out first to steady yourself is your leading foot!

Step 2---With your hands firmly grasping each rail push up quickly.

Step 3-- Simultaneously, extend your arms completely and pull your knees quickly up to your chest. Be sure to keep your weight centred with just a little slant forward.

Step 4---Place your feet firmly on your board, one foot near the tail and one foot just above the midpoint of the board.

Step 5---Keep a low centre of gravity by crouching down and focusing your weight on the midpoint of the board. Keep your arms out, your eyes looking forward and balance.

Duck-diving is a technique to allow you to pass under breaking waves when paddling out, rather than getting hammered by each breaking wave.