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Place ham bone in a large pot and fill with water. Bring to a boil and simmer for about an hour.
Meanwhile...
Peel and dice potatoes and ham. Chop onion.
Strain out the bones and meat from your stock.
Add potatoes and onion.
Add spices.
Add spinach.
Bring to a boil and turn down heat. Simmer for approximately 15-20 minutes till potatoes are done.
Add ham just to heat it up. Check your seasonings. Add a little more salt or pepper.
Let the soup sit for about 1/2 an hour. Then add buttermilk.
And cream.
There you go! A good old fashioned Mennonite borsch.